Wat Bang Phra

Wat Bang Phra…

This weekend is the first three day 2010 Bangkok International Tattoo Convention. Ever. Not being up for a crowd (and full of caffeine), I called Khun Pissout (my fav taxi driver) to see if he was free for the day. He was. So as a tattoo substitute, we drove to Wat Bang Phra (วัดบางพระ) in Nakhon Chai Si (นครชัยศรี).

I’m of two thoughts about going to the tattoo festival, and both of them are a no. The enormous crowds and real physical danger is a worry. Last year, a photographer got his arm broken in the frenzy of it all. Crowds + danger. Hmmm… tattoo me chicken.

Wat Bang PhraWat Bang Phra is roughly 63 km from where I live in Bangkok, which took under an hour and a half to drive straight through. We arrived at the Wat around 11.45, just in time to stand around waiting for the tattooing monk to finish his lunch.

While I wandered around clicking, Khun Pissout got the local flavour of the Wat from a lottery ticker seller born and bred in the area.

Now remember, this is oral history… so…

Before he was known, the monk Luang Phor Boon tattooed four men with protective symbols. At some point after the tattooing, the men drank whisky, got drunk, got mean, and shot each other.

None died. Ok, except for the one who died from a bamboo shoved in a very painful place. But he only died because (apparently) the symbols protect skin-covered body parts, but not the ones with entries.

So anyway, the newspapers got hold of the story and made Luang Phor Boon famous for being the monk with magic tattooing skills.

As the money started rolling in from the followers of the now famous Luang Phor Boon, buildings were added to the original compound, making Wat Bang Phra what it is today.

So, even if you are not into tattoos, it is a worthwhile trip for anyone with an interest in architecture and Thai spirits, as they seem to have one or a row of everything.

Wat Bang PhraMy plan for the day was to interview a tattooing monk, but his student suggested that he be a substitute instead. It made sense as no one could figure out how we could extract the monk from his scheduled tattooing (and I did not want to wait). And that is who you will find in the first video – the loyal student.

And please, please, please do not ask me for the names of either the loyal student or the tattooing monk. In a total muff, I forgot to ask. Ah… the shame…

Btw – The videos for this post are shot with a PowerShot SX1-IS (my first attempt). For privacy, I avoided most direct face shots of the people in line and the lovely (and brave) girl being tattooed.

Tattoo interview at Wat Bang Phra…

Transcript for the tattoo interview…

Please note: This is not a word for word translation of the interview. It was done this way because there is a lot of repeating going on. The Thai script was injected to share the interesting words and phrases. Some were used for my Thai lesson on Friday with Khun Phairo (yes, we have fun!) Khun Pissout is doing the honours (thanks Khun Pissout).

Why do people come here to have tattoos?

To receive kindness from people (เมตตามหานิยม – mâyt-dtaa má-hăa ní-yom), to have power over people (มีอำนาจ – mee am-nâat), to be a leader (เป็นผู้นำ – bpen pôo nam).

And how about protection from being physically harmed (เเคล้วคลาดปลอดภัย – khaelu klâat bplòt pai)?

The people who have that (ลงยันต์ – long yan = mystic symbols) tattoo (สัก – sàk), will be protected (ป้องกัน – bpông gan). But they must be moral (มีศีล – mee sĕen), and follow the five precepts (ศีลห้า – sĕen-hâa).

The work they do must be legal (อาชีพ สุจริต – aa-chêep sùt-jà-rìt).

And alcohol is not forbidden?

Not forbidden.

What kind of designs do the people get?

Tiger (เสือ – sĕua), bird (หงษ์ – hŏng = bird symbol of the Mon people from Indian mythology – a mythical goose), magpie with a golden tongue (สาลิกา – săa-lí-gaa), nine peaks (เก้ายอด – gâo yôt), eight directions (เเปดทิศ – tít bpàet).

How about the protection symbol (เเคล้วคลาดปลอดภัย – khaelu klâat bplòt pai)? What does it look like?

The protection design mostly uses Pali/Sanskrit characters (อักขระ – àk-kà-rà). Would you like to see an example?

Is this called àk-kà-rà (อักขระ)?

Yes. It is called àk-kà-rà (อักขระ). The design (on the guy’s lower back) is called yan gròr pét (ยันต์เกราะเพชร = mystical symbol + armor + diamond). The design (higher up) on his back is called hâa tăew (ห้าแถว = five rows).

If the guy with the tattoo is good (เป็นดนดีมีศีล – bpen don dee mee sĕen), the tattoo will really work. If you do good things, it works. It will cover all you asked for.

How long did this tattoo take?

Almost one year (เกีอบปี – òp bpee).

He is a good person. If you are a good person and you have a tattoo, your income will grow and your business will be good. People will trust and believe in what you say. If you are a boss, people will respect you as a leader. So we consider that if we are good, and we also have a tattoo, the tattoo will support our life to success. Mostly the people who have tattoos will have a good personality (more confidence).

The five precepts…

I’m not 100% sure about the five precepts (ศีลห้า – sĕen-hâa) as there are different versions floating around. The part about being able to drink alcohol or not sticks out (and one that I will not mention here). Below is (I am told) a trimmed down version of the official precepts.

  1. Do not kill.
    เว้นจากการฆ่าสัตว์ตัดชีวิตทั้งปวง
    wáyn jàak gaan kâa sàt dtàt chee-wít táng bpuang
  2. Do not steal.
    เว้นจากการลักทรัพย์
    wáyn jàak gaan-lák-sáp
  3. Do not be unfaithful to your spouse.
    เว้นจากการประพฤติผิดในกามทั้งหลาย
    wén jàak gaan bprà-préut pìt nai gaam táng lăai
  4. Do not lie.
    เว้นจากการพูดเท็จ
    wáyn jàak gaan pôot-tét
  5. Do not take drugs or drink alcohol.
    เว้นจากการดื่มน้ำเมา
    wáyn jàak gaan dèum náam mao

Tattoos.com has a Law of the Tattoo list which is much more interesting than the one I’ve posted above. The bit about fruit and the onethatwillnotbenamed has me stumped. Hmmm.

Getting the monks blessing…

Our interview was stopped as soon as the tattooing monk arrived. “My teacher! My Teacher!” Everyone waiting took off their shoes and lined both sides of a narrow veranda, facing the monk. I was repeatedly assured that I could film during the tattooing – we are used to photographers – so with three people pushing me forward, my shoes joined theirs.

The monk instructed his followers to line up in front of him… and that’s where this video comes in (please excuse my unsteady hands). I believe the man in the front has a tiger tattoo because that is the wild sound he makes during the offering. The suddenness of the tiger noises and dramatic hand movements startled not just me, but a little girl who took off running.

Monk tattooing…

As you will see in the video, the monk is tattooing with a humongous metal rod. And if I didn’t want a tattoo before, I certainly do NOT want one now!

Daily Tattooing: Right before reaching the monk, the people next in line to the one being tattooed will assist the monk with holding the one receiving the tattoo still.

The monk uses a single long thin needle about 18 inches in length and about four millimeters in width. The tip of the spike is split into two (like a split cane), so that each stab of the spike produces two dots of ink in the skin. There are about 8 of these needles in a pot of a type of cleaning solution. Sometimes the monk will sharpen the needle with fine grade sandpaper before beginning.

The monk dips the needle into the ink about every 30 seconds. When complete, he blesses the tattoo and blows a sacred Kata (Ghata) on it to infuse it with power.

For men, the monk uses the charcoal ink. For women he uses a transparent ink and will use a glove in order to not touch the female body.

I did not see a glove used in the video so perhaps gloves are optional. Did you? I know, I know… I have many questions. Rules are meant to be broken, so it is not that. I’m just curious is all.

Wat Bang Phra braceletsI am told that monks are not supposed to be in business or handle money. And that any monks at JJ Market or elsewhere who approach you for money are not real monks at all.

Yet after I gave over what I thought was a donation to the Wat, I was informed that it will go to the monk. A percentage of his take going to the Wat was mentioned, as was money being sent to support the monk’s family. It is a totally rational plan.

Before leaving the Wat we visited the building that housed the body of Luang Phor Boon. To the right of his casket, in the same room, was a gift shop where I purchased protective bracelets and tiger amulets. I handed the money directly to the monk behind the counter.

Yes, I have questions. Many, many questions. In search of the answer to monks and money, I discovered that the debate has been batted about for over 2,000 years so I’ll leave them to it.

Wat Bang Phra

Wat Bang Phra

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